My goal temperature

Hello, the first thing you should find out is the 1000 motor trab temperature, I distrust it, if it is as Kikemec says then the operation is normal.
If you can place a bulb with a different range of work if that reassures you.
As for the heating radiator, it is convenient that it is working, in addition to heating in winter, this allows a resource how much it lifts a little temperature and the knob of the cold board is, you quickly take it to maximum heat and the engine temperature goes down several degrees.
As for the thermostat if it does not lot, there is an obstruction less in the water circuit and it will cool more because it circulates greater mass of water, it is that in winter the engine will work a long time to reach the regime temperature. Do you know how many speeds the scro of that goal has? Well, it may be that the relay coil only coupled to the second speed, this happened to me in a Siena, when I had to attach the first speed I was sparkling one of the chips of the coil and recently just when the temperature was further coupled the second (faster) that normally always worked in the lowest.
I hope I have been clear. Greetings

Thank you. I have been finding out and the goal temperature is 90-92º, now it is walking in 95-97º which is a lot and I would not like the joint to blow again as I happened, what I am going to try is to buy a lower temperature bulb lower than 85º to see if it keeps me the temperature in 90 the recommended and the theme of the thermostat is what does not close me; Not having it faster the water, what I am thinking is to check the board if it marks well if anyone knows how it works that should carry a temperature sensor in the engine I imagine.
The electro apparently works with a single speed because the bulb is two -legged, and I also understand that cars that bring air conditioning use two speeds.

Hello goalkeeper,
the fact that the thermostat does not worry do not worry, the fact of circulating faster as the say is not so, because the speed of circulation is given by the pump, the thermostat presents a load loss because the step is not completely free, therefore before and after you will have a delta p, and to achieve a greater temperature transfer the higher the pressure in the major circuit is the intercray. CONCLUSION The refrigeration without the thermostat will be greater. But keep in winter because the engine is going to work a long cold time, and if you want to use the heating you will have to wait a long time ...
in terms of temperature reading if there is an electrical bulb, which is usually in the cylinder cover. To check it you need an appropriate range thermometer, at least 120 ° and verify the temperature in the vs. engine. the one indicated on the board.
Greetings.

In Volkswagen engines the thermostat cannot be eliminated since these are double -body and handle two different precions when they are not working at higher temperatures and tend to heat up, now this engine works at higher temperatures just like the French, the difference is that they work at two speed and therefore in two temperatures, you can put a smaller vulvo but the fan will be working longer.