MONO point carburetor problems

Okay, man, I'll start by telling you that this particular car appears to be a Swift 1.3L single-point injection, 4-cylinder in-line. I'm not sure, you can correct me if I'm wrong. There are several possible solutions to your problem. First, as you say, you could change the carburetor for one from a carbureted 1.3L Swift, but that would be very complicated and even a bit expensive because you'd have to change the fuel pump in the fuel tank, since the ones for the carbureted and injected cars are different. The injected one you have operates at much higher pressure than the carbureted one. You'd also have to change the fuel injection tower for a carburetor from a 1.3L Swift, with some modifications to the ignition system. This is something for experts and not recommended for beginners. But anyway, that's just one solution. The other would be to check the car's timing, like the spark plugs. It's recommended that you change all four to be sure. I've known people who change one or two and don't get the car running the way they want when all they need to do is change all four spark plugs for a good brand and approved ones. For this car, Bosch and NGK are good. I recommend German and Japanese brands. You can also check that all the sensors are properly connected. You can monitor this from the dashboard with the check engine light or by checking the connections one by one. After that, check the distributor's proper functioning, as it could have an internal problem that would only be noticeable during use. Also, check all the engine's ground wires and sockets. Some time ago, I had a Swift that had this type of problem, and it was just the wire going to the distributor; the connectors were worn out. Finally, there's the injector and the computer. For the injector, I recommend testing it on a test bench to see if it's still functioning properly and sealing and opening correctly. If not, it would clearly explain the over-mixing problem, and the best solution is to replace it. The computer should also be tested by installing a borrowed one to see how it works. Finally, and if this is the case, I'm truly sorry to say, check the engine valves for leaks around the piston rings and also inspect the entire engine to rule out damage due to age. It's been quite a while since '94. Well, I recommend you follow this logic to find the problem and rule out anything electrical first, since that's where most Suzuki cars malfunction. Mechanically, they're unbeatable if they've had proper maintenance. I wish you much success and hope you achieve your goal.

Everything they've explained is fine, but I prefer to go from the simplest to the most complex. First, you'd have to measure the fuel pressure. In some systems, it can be easily adjusted with a screwdriver.
From what you've said, there aren't any knowledgeable people in your area with the right tools to service these types of cars.
But you can measure the pressure with any pressure gauge. If you get the hang of it, you can insert a T-fitting into the fuel line (make sure it's the inlet and not the return). I don't remember the exact pressure, but it's around 1.5 kg/cm². In any case, if the pressure exceeds this limit, your engine could flood with gasoline.
The regulator is usually next to the injector; it's a cover with four screws. The adjustable ones have a screw in the center with a notch for a screwdriver, and unscrewing it lowers the pressure.
If it's not this type, carefully disassemble it; it's very simple. It only has a spring, a diaphragm, and a valve. Clean everything thoroughly, checking that the return line isn't blocked, as well as the line that returns to the tank. If there's no obstruction, reassemble everything, start the engine, and check the pressure again. If it's still high, replace the regulator.
If the pressure is within normal values, you'll have to check the lambda sensor, but for that, you'll need to find a qualified technician.