It is not the caudalimetro

Greetings to all, although it is a bit late I think I know what happened to your car.
The diesel cut valve is locked when it is heated, this watter is responsible for closing the fuel supply to the injection pump, if when you turn off the car does not close at all when starting the engine it accelerates alone and how this grabbed cannot give much power because the diesel passage is reduced.
When it cools it no longer locks and works again.

Greetings to all, I think that it is neither the gasoil cutting solenoid valve nor flowmeter, nor heaters (although it is related to the latter)

the first, after a breakdown in motor management, the fault code must be erased if not, the switchboard continues to remember that there is something fucked although it is changed.

To do so there are three ways:

1st diagnosis machine, I deduce that you do not have it because the same machine would have given you the data of the fault without having to do divinatory arts. And once the problem is solved, the code is erased and ready.

2nd removing the battery dough and leaving the car without food for at least half an hour, in this way all circuits of the switchboard are discharged and it loses the memory of breakdowns. The bad thing is that you have to reprogram the windows and radio presonies)

3rd through the contact key. It is very simple, every time you put the key and make contact the switchboard tests all its organs and if it does not present the light the light goes out (except that it has an old fault) if you put contact and you remove it repeatedly before before the breakdown light is turned off by itself, the switchboard does not come to test all the components and give the reading as good. When 20 or 25 good readings accumulate and the failure does not persist, the light goes out. (Although the breakdown is recorded as a transitory failure) but what I am going to, the car is perfectly.

Returning to the before, if it were the fuel cutting sohow, how would the hot car stop? Response in any way.

Or it would stop so as not to start anymore (much more likely) because when they break they stay at rest by cutting the passage of the diesel.

What I think and eye that is an opinion is that it has to do with the heaters:

the heater have two phases of operation,

1st pre -healing or cold start, the heater enters the current for 6 to 10 seconds depending on the outer temperature, the start of the vehicle occurs and when the loading light of the alternator is extinguished (signal that the engine has managed to start) are extinguished.

2nd postcalization or cold march. It consists of the fact that while the engine is slowing down and the 40º C is not exceeded in the butt, the heater, the gasoil filter and the admission collector are heated but eye do not heat up as before starting but rather they put warm, to prevent fumes from producing.

This phase as I have already said is disconnected in two ways, by temperature when exceeding 40ºC or by load, if you accelerate in Volkswagen Audi or if you exceed 20 km/h (in Opel) are disconnected to reconnect when you stop or return to idle.

Now, apart from this, the TDIs limit the blossy of the turbo while they are in the postcall or cold march phase.

And what I am going without winding more, the temperature probe of the heater box is in the thermostat, next to which the temperature clock needle moves, if the probe is broken, the engine automatically enters cold, even if it is at work temperature.

If the connector is loose or damaged, it produces the same effect. What happens is that the switchboard is not asshole and realizes that something is going badly when receiving diesel temperature information, intake air temperature, turbo pressure Turbo hahaha etc. etc. And therefore the broken breakdown.

I hope you have helped you.

PS there goes another grain of rice full of letters.