Alternator that does not load, vin of the rotor?

Hello, I have been lit the load indicator pilot of an old Nissan Micra, about 10 years, is 1000cc and 60CV. Verified the battery will not be recharge.

As I am an electrician, I have some notions, and I will see if I can solve the problem without having the manual by hand, so I have removed the alternator and I have disassembled.

The windings are "well", neither open nor have escape currents. The brushes well tb.

So, since I cannot reach the diodes, I have drawn a three -diodes three -phase rectifier, I have measured the 3 that go to the battery positive, the 3 well, give 534 selecting the measure of diodes. The 3 that are negative to the phases well TB, 534, in the 6 cases, inversely polarized they do not give value, the polyimeter screen remains at 1.

In addition, in the alternator there is a double connector with 2 blade terminals as a Faston type.
, one of them must be the load because then in the electrical istalacion it is the one that goes to the 10A fuse, it also comes from the phases, but there is an interleaved between phase and terminal some semiconductor, because it gives me a value of 1040 if I measure it with the selector to the extent of diodes, inversely 1704.

The brushes fed through the positive Gordo cable directly one of them, and the other through the phases with intercalated semiconductors TB.

Well I have made a scheme to see if you can give me some light, more than anything to know if the alternator is fine, or if you have any scheme.
Ah the other terminal of the connector have me confused, and in the installation I do not know where it goes, the others well, one to the fuse of 10a and the other direct battery, well. The 10A ok fuse.

Thank you very much, see if you can guide me a bit, and discover why you don't load.
Let's see if I can solve it and not have to spend a paston or throw the car at the scrapping.


All the best

Jose Luis, the diodes I understand that you have measured them by putting the cables at both ends of each element, but you have measured if there is continuity of the connection of the diode to the plate. I repaired a plaque of diodes from a 505 alternator, at first glance it is not fallen but the welding was gone to one and it did not pass current, keep in mind that where there is a lot of temperature and they are large diodes that have a lot of intensity and end up fucking the welds. Luck.

Another thing that I forgot, in the alternators you have apart from the diodes plate the load regulator will be the other circuit that you say of the double connector. It is in charge of putting the rotor more or less common to increase or decrease the magnetic field as more or less current is needed. I mean is in charge of the exit is always 13.6v independently the load that the circuit has plus lights, AA, thermal moon ... etc.
I think the output was 13.6v but I am not sure, it can also vary according to models.
The loading regulator is more difficult to repair, the diodes plaque if you can repair it but the regulator I think.
Anyway, I welded it with a 150 w wolder and instead of putting normal tin I put tin silver, which they use in plumbing, has a higher melting point. I already told you that the problem is the temperature. Nor does the diodes are very hot if you have to review any welding because you load them, I mean the lobby and a fast heat peak from the moment you approach until it melts.

Industrial and automotive electricity is not the same. This type of alternator has a nomenclature of the connector, the IG and L these are ignition that comes from a fuse and the l that is a pilot light and goes directly to the board. Your scheme is bad. The 3 diodes who go to a carbon are the positive feeding of the dough and the refusal is generated by the voltage regulator. The line of the tri diode that goes to carbon is I think that in directly linked to the pilot light and that is what lights the light and turns off when it becomes positive, when the alternator generates. Light because the negative generated by the regulator circulates through the dough and dentra to the other carbon to feed the light on the board and the focus on the board is attached to the other end with the fuse of the markers. Without the positive success of the pilot light the alternator does not load and the opposite without the voltage that comes out of the 3 diodes to the brush does not load or turn off the pilot. If the pilot does not turn off you have problems or with the tri diode, or with the regulator. All Voltage regulators are regulated to 14.4 volts not to 13.6 What makes them lower is the consumption when charging the system with extras that are not from the vehicle, a defective battery, or false contacts and are called tension falls, the majority check the voltage in the battery and do not compare with the exit of the alternator. There may be a tension fall in the positive and in the negative the manuals indicate that the maximum that must be lost in the path of the alternator to the battery is 0.3v. And a defective battery can even raise the regulator voltage, 2 regulators change me once I went from 15v and stabilized to 14V until I try another battery. The battery is also a voltage stabilizer in the cargo system. That is why a battery should not be disconnected with the engine, the voltage rises and you can burn the ECU.

Thank you very much, I understand, if I knew that the brushes did not square me (choto, carbon do you mean to the brushes? 1, (I put a TB photo:

Terminals 2, and 3 are those of the double connector, the 2 as you can see direct to a fuse of the box next to the battery, and direct to battery positive. This is marked with LG in a workshop book of a posterior micra, that of the K12 engine, mine is the K11, and the other, the 3 is marked as Lque Vá to the regulator, and I see the regulator to the passing panel through the 10A fuse under the steering wheel, and then goes to the contact key.
What I do not understand how 2 terminals of the connector to a brush, the refusal, (or less positive) ...........

The diodes are not loose, if the 3 diodes have measured them from the end of each phase to the same nut of connector 1. and the other 3 from a threaded asparagus, which then passes the lid, negative bone, to the same ends of windings. The status winding has star connection, verifified.

So, I think the alternator is fine, I will mount the alternator again, hope it is an excessive tension drop in the clear cables. To measure tension, what will be the cable that loads the battery, the fat of the connector 1 (I believe that yes), or the 2 the LG, which goes with one of 10a ?, Because I disconnect, start, to see what tension there is.

The alternator is a Hitachi12v65a. Let's see if I find the scheme by INET.



The new scheme, the negative broom not connected, since I don't know, nor connectors 2, and 3, the rest is fine.



E1 would be a brush (direct of the battery positive), and the one next to the right, I do not know if you know how it is connected to terminals 2, and 3, there is no continuity, we go the Tester does not whistle, there is some electronic component interspersed.

Thank you so much

All the best