It is long and tedious, but ... take note:
the first thing to tell you that if the dark water comes out pulling black it is because you have oil, carbon or rubber residues in the water. They can be fine because it escapes something by cylinder head, (unlikely because it would take a huge pressure in the circuit) or sympleously because the closure of the water pump graph is about to leave or because the sleeves are degraded by the use.
If the water comes out of reddish mud color, what you have is suspension iron oxide due to the corrosion of the motor block because it has not used antifreeze during engine life. The antifreeze also has motor corrosion inhibitors, and anticáreos that prevent the formation of lime deposits.
Well the mess:
1st with the cold engine Remove the sleeve from the bottom of the radiator and throw all the water to the ground or a sweep, search one of the sides of the motor block to see if there were a threaded cap to empty the water that remains inside the engine. (If you do not find it or cannot remove it, nothing happens). Put water with a hose until it stops out of cloudy.
2º Buy one or two radiator cleaner boats in a spare parts, another less recommended option is to add to ammonia water mixed with cooking degreasing type Cillit Bang, KH-7 or similar, and fill the circuit with the mejunge.
3º Fill the circuit with the radiator cleaner or the degreaser mixture, look to see if it has purgiers to expel the air from the circuit, start the engine and keep it accelerated to about 2500 rpm for a quarter of an hour more or less, with the heating on, (without fan because if you are not going to roast). Vigilating at all times the engine temperature, as well as the operation of the radiator electrventilator.
4th stop it and without waiting for it to cool open the sleeve of the radiator carefully not to burn! And repeat the first step, clarify with running water, remove the water cap of the block if it had it ...
5th repeat if the whole process is desired again because the water of colors will come out again although this time less.
With this we have achieved that all the shit and the sediments of the water go to the radiator, so it will touch it disassemble the car and take it to a workshop specialized in radiator repair because it will almost certainly be completely stuck.
In the workshop, what they are going to do is disassemble the radiator's charts, and put a finite rod for each of the radiator's ducts to remove all the sediments and then rinse it with pressure water for each tube to finish closing it again.
Do not try to open the radiator on your own because you load it, and it is not worth putting a water hose through the mouths of the radiator because that does not take away the quarter of what it will have inside.
After mounting the radiator, check the status of the sleeves, if they have marks of the clamps, oxide inside, they are given of themselves or peeled or blandes will touch you to buy all the new sleeves and change them.
6º Change the thermostat to cure in health, change the water pump depends on the state in which it is, the kilometers of the car, etc.
7º Fill it with new antifreeze to be possible at 30%, the color is the least but that endures -18ºC is not because of the cold, but for the protection against corrosion.
8th Arráncalo, look to see if you have purgiers to release the air inside and observe the temperature, the electro, the operation of the heating, etc. If you detect something strange (that the heating does not come hot, or that the temperature rises a lot or the water comes out ...) I take it immediately and look to see what the problem is.
I hope I have helped you with the subject. Anyway, if the engine has been working for a lot of time with water alone, you will have to monitor the blanket sheet caps and the block is not worthwhile to have water leaks or explode with the pressure due to corrosion.
Greetings and what is something hung here ok?
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