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Ford Focus 2000 Problem Solution

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16 years 7 months before #7961 by manual-mecanica
Manual-mechanics' response on the topic Re:Solution Re:Problem Ford Focus 2000_solution
Thank you for posting the solution to your problem. It's helpful when forum members share their solutions, as this will help other forum members, especially in your case, since the same problem exists in this forum. Thanks and best regards.

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14 years 2 months before #26440 by manual-mecanica
Manual-mechanics' response on the topic Re:Solution Re:Problem Ford Focus 2000_solution
I have the same problem, except that changing the pump didn't work for me. It's been changed three times and the car still has the same problem. Could you help me find the problem? I would really appreciate it...

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14 years 2 months before #26458 by manual-mecanica
Manual-mechanics' response on the topic Re:Solution Re:Problem Ford Focus 2000_solution
Try powering the pump with direct battery cables to see if it doesn't cut out. Also, it would be better to start a new thread instead of posting here, so it gets more replies and views, since this thread is over two years old. Best of luck!

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14 years 1 month before #27960 by manual-mecanica
Manual-mechanics' response on the topic Re: Solution Re: Ford Focus 2000 problem_solution
But remember that the pump needs to be replaced with the new design, and the base that's attached to the bottom of the gas tank needs to be cut off. That's a defect these cars have, and it's a recall. Dealerships even have a tool, like special pliers, to cut the base without breaking the tank. Okay, and that's it. This new pump design doesn't collect as much debris from the tank.

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13 years 4 months before #37032 by manual-mecanica
Manual-mechanics response on the topic SOLUTION Problem Ford Focus 2000
Dear Sirs, this may be an old topic, but I think I've finally figured out the solution to the Ford Focus problem. Mine is a 2002 Ford Focus, and I spent six months with this issue until we resolved it. It all started with poor service on my vehicle. It began to jerk, and after driving for extended periods, especially on hills like the 10 km/h hills we have in some parts of my country, it would start losing power. Now, there are several symptoms I've seen online that don't accurately describe the problem. Mine would start accelerating, then it was as if it wasn't getting enough fuel, and it would start to stall. I would try to start it, and it wouldn't respond; I had to wait a few minutes, and then it would work again, just as I've read in many blogs. So, where did we begin? We started by checking the computer, and it showed that cylinder number 4 wasn't firing. We replaced the injector, then the coil and wires, and it worked somewhat, but then the problem returned, especially in hot weather. I refused to drop the tank and look at it. The fuel pump, and so I did. After all this, I realized two things. The first is that, to me, the pump was fine because the car was backfiring, so fuel was getting there and it was working properly. Then, with my cousin who is a mechanic, we saw that the EGR valve sensor was disconnected from all its hoses because the bases were broken. So I repaired it to avoid buying a new one. The vehicle's combustion was better, although the Check Engine light came on afterward, but the vehicle's acceleration was fine. This indicates that this valve needs to be replaced. The biggest and last thing we did was simpler than expected: we bought original Motorcraft spark plugs from the dealership, and it was a miracle cure. The vehicle hasn't stalled since. The reason is quite simple: platinum spark plugs, and all of them, have a certain degree of heat that warms the ignition coil and gradually damages it. So, when the coil fails, the first thing it causes is an error in cylinder number 4, and therefore it has to be replaced. While the original spark plugs are better at regulating heat and don't overheat this coil, this helped me resolve the issue. Sometimes the fuel pump fails, but it doesn't fail repeatedly; it simply breaks down shortly after it fails and stops working. If you have doubts about the fuel pump, it's easy to check. Download a vehicle error code manual from the internet based on the center panel. What I mean is, if you press the button in the center of your instrument panel, the one that resets the odometer or mileage, and then turn the key to the "on" position, start the car without releasing this knob until the needles complete a full rotation, this is the vehicle's diagnostic tool. There you can see the actual pressure and temperature of your vehicle. You just have to download this data from a manual available online, and you'll be able to find out what's wrong with your vehicle and whether or not the pump has pressure. I hope I've finally been able to help with this problem. I hope this is useful and a solution for many. Also, I want to mention that... The ZTEC engine is excellent, and you just need to know what vehicle you have to be able to repair it properly. Thank you.

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