With the camshaft you have to have the same considerations as when the crankshaft axis is rectified, that is, the rotation stumps are reduced in diameter, the axle camons or cams are also reduced. These size reductions are compensated with larger rotation metals, to maintain the slack in which the oil wedge is deposited. I do not remember well if the hydraulic tanes compensate for that reduction in the size of the cam, but if I remember correct, I would not have problems, I do not remember well. Changing or not a camshaft will depend on the type of deterioration that it has. I recommend that if you have the possibility of changing it for a new one, it would be ideal, since you would save several inconveniences, such as the metals of the cams on measure, tachy that do not open the valves as the most common, without considering that a rectification work is not sure that it is 100% well. To remove the cams, it depends on the configuration in which it is installed, there are cases that leaves at one end and you have to slide by the bench, others have to take out the fixing benches, if it is of this type or of the other it is released from outside inward, that is to say the bench of one end is released, then the one of the other end and so on to the central bench that would be the last one to release. Obviously, previously taking out a stack of accessories such as Valve cover distribution strap and several more of that type. In any case, whatever the type of cams and its fixation that you have, you must carry the cylinder head to be checked in the rectifier and check the camshaft benches and if the butt is crooked, which due to consequences of a bad tightening sequence can be twisted, temperature, deterioration by use.
I hope it has been helpful, that you use them well