Problems with Traffic 89 Gasolera 2.1

The theme is so a year ago I bought this traffic mod 89 Diesel 2.1 that turned out to be a problem more than a help, at two hours I use, I turn the engine and had to do it whole back.
My problem is the following at present to more than 70 when the engine reaches its average temperature begins a pounding that is related to acceleration, it for noise of valves but only does it in high revolutions, I would like to know how the valves of this flat, the light in admission and escape, the order of set -up and how to rule out a possible noise of metals are regulated. And pair of the lid and order too.
The truck since the motorcycles are ever stopped stopping smoking, it could be the lid or some bush, I give a morning but I want the desire.
Please appreciate the information since I have all the tools and probes, and I want to be able to give my vehicle without fear of being exploited. [/List]

The noise you mention can be due to two things:

1st that the injection pump is out of point, more concretedly advanced, so that the diesel is injected early and causes a strong rod chopped, (such as a metallic rattle similar to when you put an engine to an engine)

2nd that the rod caps are crushed due to a lack of oil or the deterioration of the connecting rod directly on the crankshaft doll.

I do not think it is the second because as you say you have rebuilt the engine completely, and I suppose you will have put new caps.

So what I think is that you must open the distribution belt cover and make sure all brands are in place.

The tachy slack of that engine is 0.10 m/m in admission and 0.15 m/m in exhaust.

The tanes can be made in two ways, you can search for the crossing or overlap of the 4th cylinder to make the 1st, then the 2nd to do the 3rd, then the 1st to do the 4th and finally the 3rd to do the 2nd.

Or you can make it easier by putting the 1st in compression and making it whole AD/s, the 3rd only ad, and the 2nd only in is, and the 4th you will not be able to because the two footsteps are.

Then you turn the engine, put the 4th in compression and make the valves that you have left, that is, and 4th integer ad/s, the 3rd is only, the 2nd only AD, and the 1st is made and also will have the two torn valves.

It seems a tongue twenty ...

Anyway, ask the manual in the space dedicated to it in this forum.

All the best.

Thanks for the help a last question, the Diesel bomb has some mark to know when it goes from knitting, and to return to it as is the indicated method.

The injection pump of that engine has a step on the axis, so that it is always in position with respect to the pinion, in addition the pinion carries a mark to synchronize with the distribution strap. However, the anchors of the pump to the motor block, carry the elongated holes so that a slight pump rotation can be allowed on its anchor, similar to that of the ignition distributors.

The normal thing is that before removing the pump from your site, a stripe is marked with a chisel or granot in the pump and another in the block so that at the time they are faced and know where it was open.

If you have not marked the pump when you disassembled the engine, when it put it again it has been when it has moved to you. Notice to see if there is any previous brand to see if you can place it, because otherwise you will have to penetrate it "by eye" and that requires a lot of patience.

Greetings and if you don't have marks in the pump, let it know here to explain how to penetrate the pump in place.

Yesterday as it was indicated, check the pulle brands and they are all ready, the bomb has a mark and seems to be well or the high centimeter outside it, but it is not a factory brand is a brand by force with some element such as a chisel or a screwdriver, it is getting more and more sounding the blow, but the flat walks as a bolid Thick and white.
If someone can tell me how the order of the pistons from the front is and how to give me Cuetnta Cunado are in compression to try tomorrow morning in cold check the valves well.
And as are the parameters to know the correct position of the pump and also know if any injector is fucking or something like that of what I am sure is that the noise comes from above.
You can have something to do with the water pump or something else to check.

Thank you all for help