Peugeot 306 Rehears with a new joint and lid

In your message you say that they repaired the cylinder head (I know it with the name of cylinder cover), and then repaired it again, because the mechanic of your "old man" told you that it was crooked, etc.
This indicates that the cylinder head was repaired twice, for being crooked. They rectified it.
In my opinion, a crooked cylinder head, it cannot be repaired.
There are generally cuts on the surface that are carried out with the idea of ​​removing that "twist", but it is a deformation in the material that is already recounted, it is because the same material reached the maximum or limit of the deformation, in this case by temperature. In other words, it will no longer be the material it was again.
On the other hand, if they cut to the surface of the cylinder head, there must be compensation to prevent combustion chambers from being smaller volume. Because of this, the compression pressure increases, which leads to an "eternal" heating. For this, compensatory joints are installed, which are already sold with a certain thickness, according to the cut of the cylinder head, etc. I do not know if there you can find a very good brand of joints, called Ajusa, they are very complete, of good quality and you could avocar for the sale of spare parts for this topic. Or tell the mechanic, that you will check it to you to buy or you directly that joint brand.

I say all this, because you say they have repaired twice that cylinder head. On the other hand, Kikemec's comments are very good and should have been the procedure they had to do, before touching or disassembling guys, etc.

Greetings

Thank you very much I will take it into account and then I commented as everything advanced ...

Estimated all, good afternoon

I tell you that I was checking the car for a while and taking some photos to send them. First, I clarify that I never had an idea of ​​the function of the car and now I am trying to learn a little not to fix it but to have a little idea of ​​the problem and know something when I speak to me the mechanic. I will make a summary of the current state of the car to avoid confusion. They already apologize if I ask very winds and thank you all for collaboration
1) the car when I start it takes to start, but luckily it starts, but when it sometimes walks "pull" or "it is award" (as if it were going to run out of gasoline but it has the tank almost full). Will it be the carbons that are spent? Once it happened to me that it took to start and changed the carbons and was solved, how can you know whether or not the carbons are?
2) It does not have the thermostat. Can the radiator purge be done just as Santi indicates in the link Federico happened to me?
3) I noticed that the radiator lid is deteriorated, a black gum (like washer) that is around the lid.
4) The lid and the radiator (where the liquid is placed) have dirt (it will be solved if I put the new lid and make the purge as Santi says?)
5) I was not putting refrigerant liquid or distilled water this last time. Only common water. Now they explained to me that it is very important and I will do it again.
6) Sometimes (not always) when the heating turned on, a cooling liquid fell to the companion's carpet. Why can it be?
7) I did a test today. I placed water to the level, I covered it and arranged it, then stopped it and waited for a while, I opened the lid and the radiator was full, 20 minutes later I came to work and when I arrived (5 blocks), I waited a little while, I opened the lid and the radiator was dry. The floor was also dry. I noticed the car and the Chapion was wet from the bottom. Can I have lost water on the road and that is why it does not show on the floor? Where can the water go? Will a radiator hose be broken? If so, because the water does not fall to the floor? How much is the normal water/ refrigerant that must "consume" the car? I checked the oil and thank God it has no water. Below the photos, of the doubts and of my machine to know it, of course. (Excuse me but I can't upload the images I send the link)

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Natylesca you have a more or less great tangle hahaha, I will have answered you for the same order in which you write.

1: The vehicle takes to start this can be for many factors, but regardless of the factor it is not the real problem that you tell us, it can take due to lack of battery, poor condition of the start, bad setting, refrigerant temperature sensor in poor condition, beer of dirty crankshaft, bad compression, etc.
If you pull the walking, it can be due to bad compression, butterfly position sensor in poor condition, spark plugs, cables, etc.
To diagnose if they are the coals the problem we would have to listen to it is the best way.
Now I lean on the option of bad compression, I already explain why, anyway, none of this has a lot to do with overheating.

2: Without thermostat, bleeding can be done without greater inconvenience, in fact without the thermostat it is much easier to do it since at the time of putting the cooling fluid the weight of the water takes out the air from the system.

3: Black gum is a seal of hermeticity, you must replace the lid to cancel a Frentón factor, this rubber is responsible for steam and system pressure not escape.

4 and 5: The dirt in the system if they have an oxide color is normal because you have not put the refrigerant fluid but, water from the key. It will be solved by cleaning the system and putting the corresponding liquid.

6: If the cooling liquid enters the passenger's cabin is because the heating radiator is broken, or its hoses are burned, loose or broken, the fact that it did not do it all the time may be due to the fact that the escape is minimal, and some bump the lid.

7: The water is not magical as long as it disappears from its place appears in another, when it does not fall to the ground, the only place where you can go is to the oil or the combustion chamber, in the photo the humidity that is seen is of oil not of water if you see it tomorrow will be as it is as it is like in the photo and if you pass your finger you will be oil. In addition, the consumption you mention is extremely large, at all normal and worryingly high.

It is for all this and for what you mention that in my opinion you have problems with the assault of the cylinder head again, eye if the fault is always presented as a cylinder head, what you have to look for and solve is the factor that detonates this problem, electro fan, cylinder head or block in poor condition. Good luck and patience.

Good commented my very similar case, the car is a 306 Graffyt of 98 and 2 years ago I started to happen to you without knowing what the fault was.
The breakdowns were biniend opor this hORDIN
1: BREAK OF THE RADIATOR CAMM 2: PORO IN THE RADIATOR RADIATURE 3: PORO IN THE RADIATOR 4: BREAK OF THE RETURN OF THE RADIATOR OF THE HEATING 4: FOR ALL THESE BOARD OF THE NEW BOARD WITHOUT COLATA. Radiator cap 8: Again rupture of rubber 9: butt jun for having a fissure towards the engine sterior not inward.
After all this the car is heated but only the hottest days the rest of the days work in 70 and 80 degrees thanks to putting a new thermostat of double opening one at 75 degrees and another at 85 and the security was put from 95 degrees and 110.
My problem was solved but others came by motibos of these faults. If your breakdown is in the heating radiator and you have been pulling water for a while, it is possible that you do not count or count but after changing the entire circuit you will notice the difference in the temperature. I hope the water problem is solved