Yamaha Fz1 alternator

Good, I have a FZ1 that melts three alternators, when you mount it all the values ​​and consumptions are correct, I have reviewed the installation for possible short. My conclusion is that the Zener diode that carries the regulator is not working correctly and induces the alternator's current to it and melts it. For this, the failure of this diode would have to be punctual, do you know how to measure this diode? Does something come about?

Hello, did you change the alternator 3 times and never tried to change the regulator?
Is it a star -type winding alternator, right? That is to say that the alternator is 3 windings and a permanent magnet, does not have right rectifier?
Greetings.

Hello, that's how I never tried to change the regulator, this is a rectifier regulator. The alternator is only coils and magnet (if it is three -phase). I have not changed a regulator because after mounting the embodied or new alternator (because I have ridden the two -the new one has lasted much more -) tested with the polyymore and loaded the battery at 13.5V/14V approximately as it should be. The last one has burned in the work bank doing tests. I had a very low slowdown and until I got it a good time of testing with the low idle, I say it because of the Zener, that it does not let the load pass until there is a large enough load to load more than what the battery discharges and perhaps a few revolutions the alternator does not reach that minimum and for what I understand it induces the load to the alternator. With this data all something comes to mind, however any questions that can lead you to some conclusion? Thank you.

Hello, I attach a basic image of how the loading system is, marked in a circle are the diodes that prevent the current from flowing from the battery to the alternator windings.
It may be that the burned one occurs due to a malfunction of these diodes, the best thing that can happen to you is that one fails and is in open circuit, while the failure is in short circuit it can be given that the current changes meaning and balla of the bat. to the babinee of your alternator.
I propose to carry out a test the three cables that enter the regulator, without the alternator connected and preferably with the BAT disconnected. With the polyymore (tester for me) in diode or continuity test between the three cables, it must give open circuit in all possible tests of test since there is always an inverse diode, the same between the three cables and mass or 12V, it must always give open.
Be careful that this test is for the diagram of the figure that attached, if you have the internal diagram of your regulator, I ask you to share it and analyze it.
Greetings.

imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/basico1g.png/

PS: I hope you see, I have a FZ6.

Hello, I will try to get the diagram although it is difficult, the Japanese are very jealous with their own. At the moment I have proven that the circuit is open but there is resistance between each of them in all the convinations. Among the three cables that come from the alternator in all the convinations of about 14.00 k ohmios, the same ressence with the positive and 24 k ohms with the negative.
Thank you.