There is no spark

Armando Leal Lopez wrote: If you can remove it from its location and connect its positive terminal at the end of the positive pole battery and you land the sensor at the chassis by close to a metal pede of the sensor. I hope and this serves you. Before this you can go to your car with the connected sensor Tabien you can realize whether it serves or not. Armando Leal Lopez

Ok leave me the test and publish results ... work .............

Hello,
I do not know whether you can or not, but I think yes, you should scan it to be certain of the fault.
Greetings

Hello everyone

removes the sensor as you mentioned Armando, to check and prove it, but once under the car it occurred to me to also remove the harness from the connector to check it and surprises the cables were molten. I think that this generated the failure I have not yet caused the crankshaft sensor or repaired the harness this day no longer gave me time but tomorrow I will perform the tests and repair the harnes to see if the problem is solved. and comment on the results.

I already repair the harnes, I connect everything as it should go and do not turn on the car, verify and still have no voltage to the coil.

The crankshaft sensor connects it and if there is going to the car I put it in a screaming and works as a magnet. will it serve the sensor ??

If someone save what is the voltage that must give me to the exit of the crankshaft sensor I will thank.

Any idea what the most check?

Friend of theme "There is no spark", so little that can be seen in your message, I see that you have no ignition, and the possible reasons are: 1 Verify that you have 12 volts in the food of the coil, if you disconnect it, in one of the two cables that reach it, there must be 12 volts. 2 If you have 12 volts, verify that the La Gatille module, with an analogous Ampouletita flashes, suspicion of the bad coil and change it.4 If you have no sign or flicker You can but it is done with oscilloscope, and the signals are very weak and you have to have habit to measure it with a tester. 6 If there is no injection, you can suspect the signal collector, or in some low probability the computer. These units alone do not fail, they always do it for third -party effects.7 The module if it has it external, you can identify the input signal, and see that the computer signal is reaching the module, in some of three pins, they function as a power transistor, which makes a PIN Temperature dissipator. In other modules of more pins, they have a pin with 12 volts, one with negative, one with a computer signal, another with the advance signal, another with the coil trigger, those are a bit more difficult to measure, but with the advice of a technician in electronics you can verify it. The same if you can get another one, you install it and tests, which would be the easiest. If it is switched inside the computer, that requires the technical hand, to measure components, which one must know very well to determine that it is. Perhaps if you send the complete data of the car, such as motor number, cylindrated year, brand and model, you can make a more detailed tutorial and be successful in your repair. Greetings for while and luck. Valdivian.